Tile Installation FAQ

Tile needs a substrate that does not flex. The industry standard for floor tile deflection is L/360, meaning the floor should not deflect more than the span divided by 360 under load. A typical 10-foot joist span should flex no more than about 1/3 inch. We check this during our initial walkthrough. If the subfloor is too springy, we discuss options: adding a layer of cement backer board, sistering joists, or in some cases using an uncoupling membrane like Schluter Ditra, which allows a small amount of movement without cracking the tile above.

It depends on what is there and how thick it is. Tile can sometimes go over existing vinyl or hardwood if the surface is flat, firmly bonded, and the added height does not create a problem at doorways or transitions. Going over existing tile is possible in some situations but adds height and requires careful assessment of whether the existing tile is fully adhered. In bathrooms and wet areas, we generally recommend removing old flooring to inspect the substrate beneath before committing to a new install.

We suggest ordering tile at least two to three weeks before the install date. This gives time to receive the material, check it for shade variation across boxes (different production lots can differ slightly in color), and confirm the quantity is correct. We typically recommend ordering 10% more than the calculated square footage to account for cuts, waste, and future repairs. For specialty or imported tile, lead times can be longer.

Walls are rarely perfectly square. Starting from the center of the room and working outward keeps the tile pattern visually centered and ensures that any cut tiles at the perimeter are roughly equal in size on opposite sides. Starting from a wall often results in a full row on one side and a sliver on the opposite side, which looks unbalanced. For kitchens with an island or a focal point, we sometimes adjust the layout so the full tiles fall where the eye naturally lands.

Thinset is the adhesive mortar that bonds tile to the substrate. Standard gray thinset works for most applications. Large-format tiles (anything over 15 inches on a side) and natural stone typically require a medium-bed or large-format mortar that supports the tile's weight and allows for minor substrate variations without lippage. Glass tile needs a white thinset so the adhesive color does not show through. In wet areas, we use a polymer-modified thinset for better water resistance. Using the wrong thinset is a common cause of tile failure that is not visible until months later.

A kitchen backsplash typically takes one to two days including prep and grouting. A bathroom floor in an average-sized bathroom runs one to two days as well. A full shower surround with waterproofing, tile, and grouting is generally a three to five day project depending on complexity. Large floor areas in open-plan spaces can run several days. We give a timeline estimate specific to your project before we start.

Sanded grout contains fine sand aggregate and is used for joints wider than 1/8 inch. The sand gives it structural strength and reduces shrinkage in wider joints. Unsanded grout is used for narrow joints (under 1/8 inch) and on polished stone where sand could scratch the surface. Epoxy grout is a third option that is highly stain resistant and does not require sealing, but it is harder to work with and more expensive. We discuss grout options with you based on your tile size, joint width, and the use of the space.

Cement-based grout is porous and benefits from a penetrating sealer, especially in kitchens and bathrooms where moisture and staining are common. We recommend sealing grout after it has cured fully, which is typically 72 hours after installation. Reapplication depends on the location and product used, but a general guideline is every one to two years for high-traffic or wet areas. Epoxy grout does not require sealing. We can walk you through the sealing process before we leave the job.

In most cases, yes. Cracked grout can be carefully removed with an oscillating tool or grout saw and replaced. The key is identifying why the grout cracked in the first place. If it is a movement joint issue (common at inside corners where two planes meet), the fix is to use caulk rather than grout in those locations, since caulk accommodates the slight movement that happens at transitions. If the cracking is widespread across a field of tile, it may indicate a substrate movement problem that needs to be addressed before simply re-grouting.